3.14.2013

payback is a lace and silk chiffon...beast...



i’m going to call this my project runway make, because i finished it in the four hours i had free last sunday.  down-to-the-wire sewing is of course de riguer on that jammy, and if season 8 is any indicator, peeps are constantly choosing silk chiffon.  much to michael kors dismay.  that was my weapon of choice to pair with this chartreuse cotton lace, for one of my hopefully two (!) march lace makes over at MSN.  both fabrics are deliciously drapey, and this is my first time working with either!  that also seems to be a recurring them on le PR…much, again, to The Kors dismay.


i’ve messed around with poly lace and chiffon before, and the poly lace just doesn’t compare.  you look at this cotton lace IRL, and want dive into it with both paws open and swim around awhile.  it molds soooo nicely, i was able to stretch it across the four vertical darts on front and back bodice of this heavily modified vintage TNT pattern (simplicity 4290) and just go with bust darts.  regrettably, i had to go ahead and sew up the bust darts…i tried to do that whole couture lacey piecey thing and make them disappear into the bodice, but i think maybe the cotton lace is not the best friend of that technique?   i’m going to try it in my next go…still, i’m proud that the matching underlining has 10 darts, while the lace has only two.  


the silk chiffon was a beast, though!  a sexy beast, but a beast nonetheless!  perhaps i felt i needed punishment for sonja’s sewing dare, because i found myself returning to the scene of the crime, as any criminal will do, staring at all those silk prints… woooweee.  i walked away with two strangers.  know what I found out about my new girlfriends?   the silk chiffon.   she does not want to be toyed with, or hammered into a pleated skirt (34 pleats, to be exact, all ripped out).  she wants to be footloose ‘n fancy free, gathered to her sturdy lace bodice, and who am i to say no to a lady.


said lady has a double layer of chiffon to obscure le parts.   naturally.  the bodice is underlined only, you can see the darts on the inside, but i didn't want to add any more bulk there.

to be honest, my plan all along was this shape.  but Plan A morphed into Plan B when i lamented the lack of using the lace motif on the edges, then it went to Plan C when the lace cotton didn’t want to be motif-ed, then onto D when i thought i’d scrap the 34 chiffon pleats and make a tattered lace skirt from the remnants, and back full circle to A when i realized i had four hours to finish and only half a bodice done.  here's what it looked like, sunday high noon:


(you're not seeing double, those are two wolf dress forms.  anybodywannabuyaform?  morbid details soon.)

you may blame those scant four hours on sewing-dared sonja and new MSN adventuress lladybird lauren.  hell, let's throw karen under the bus while we're at it!  LET'S THROW ALLA THE NY HOARDS THIS PAST WEEKEND UNDER THE BUS!  those guys & gals have kept me out till all hours of the night for days.  

i had to rip out the zip, unpick handstitching & 34 pleats, then...you know what, i don't wanna think about it.  but i think the pressure helped me…if i had been languishing around the living room, just me ‘n my sewing gadgets, i probably would have gone all tunnel vision and churned out another piecy alien dress. i’m glad i had to wheel back around to my first instinct.  i think i like it!


especially avec burgundy belt and shiny blue shoes.  MUST WEAR ALL THE COLORS.  colors make me twirl.

this dress was made using my monthly fabric "allowance" as part of the Mood Sewing Network.

132 comments:

  1. I feel faint even thinking about how tricky this make must have been to make. The fit of the bodice is perfect, though, and I love how the gathered drapes of the skirt counterbalance the structure of the bodice. It's amazing!

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    1. thank you karen! that's what i initially wanted. sometimes i overthink...

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  2. Love all the colors--especially at once!

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  3. ALL THE COLORS! It is a joy looking at your picture and seeing all that fabulousness :) So well done, my friend! The fit of the bodice is spot on, even if it all was a bit trickier than you had thought. You totally conquered this :)

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  4. So beautiful!

    Also, have you ever shown us your sewing space? I have the nosies and keep looking past your dress forms at the well-lit loveliness.

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    1. ah, i've been meaning to for AGES, i must get on that. especially now that i have my 14 dollar ikea shelves and new wolfie form...

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  5. Love the color and texture contrast!! This is totally stunning! Would you please link it up to Make It Wear It today at http://thetraintocrazy.com? I'd love to feature this!

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    1. thanks andrea, what a lovely blog! that was my first time ever joining a linky party, i never knew it was that easy :))

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  6. you have that gorgeous room and two dress forms and you're dropping plates all over my apartment? :-) i love the yellow and the magenta...cannot wait to see version #2 in the yellow stretchy.

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    1. YOU SHOULD SEE THE STUFF I BREAK HERE.

      version #2 is a shocking pink...even for me...

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  7. GORGEOUS! I love the color combinations! Adorable as always lady :)

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  8. Pretty dress, pretty lady.

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  9. So beautiful!
    How did you finish the neckline and the armholes of the bodice??
    I can't believe two layers of silk chiffon is enough to be opaque! so great to know!

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    1. i keep forgetting i can show an inside out shot on my dressorm now... must get on that...

      it's underlined, i stitched the lace and underling together on the 5/8s seamline, then turned the seam to the inside and handstitched the seam down. i'll get a shot up!

      the print on the chiffon definitely helps:)

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  10. I feel so creepy admitting that I spent far far too long staring at your bodice, trying to search out darts. That fit is PERFECT, like, unf, the whole thing is just magical. Totally worth staying up all hours of the night to finish, yes? :)

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    1. ah, yes, my breast are enchanting! yes, worth the crunch time. in fact the crunch time made it.

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  11. I can't help but wonder how cold you must have been photographing this lovely wonder of color? Brr! Regardless, the dress is amazing. You are giving me a nudge in the tush to get my behind in line and finish a project already. Okay, okay, I have finished projects but none worthy of le blog yet. Not until I get the pattern perfect!

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    1. that day it was a balmy 47. sadly we're back in winter now. i had a dream last night they were bringing the gorundhog back out to reassess his decision.

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  12. Such pretty colors and dress!!!

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  13. Gah! It's gorgeous. I love everything about it.

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  14. Just love the combination of lace, print and colours - lovely.

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  15. I love the lace. That is the most amazing color!! Your finished dress is not too shabby either!!! You should be proud ;)

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    1. i AM! usually my pride goes away after a long hard relook at it, but i actually wore this one out last night :)

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  16. How is it that you can make it sound like you abuse your fabric so much, and rip everything to shreds and still end up with something so flawless?! It's mind blowing how you can always make these things turn out so amazing.

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    1. HA! thank you! i do totally beat the shit outta my fabric! i do the same with electronics. maybe it's tough love?

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  17. This is fucking amazing!!! I looooooove the fit and the ALL THE COLORS look mavehlous on you! As usual ;o)

    Let's talk dressform, shall we?

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  18. Dear Oona, wonderful fit wonderful colors. Love it.

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  19. If you were selling this, I would break my one year, no clothing purchase pledge. Ah-may-zing.

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  20. OMG LOVE this! The lace is stunning and the fit and colors are perfection! Maybe one of my favorite Oona pieces ever?

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  21. okay, this just went to the top of my list of favorites. seriously gorgeous and looks amazing on you!

    and the wolf dressform... yes, let's hear more about that!

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  22. This is gorgey gorge gorge. Two of my favourite colours, acid yellow and plum, together in happy lace print matrimony. Love the dropped waist! Happy upi persevered even though I do love when you make crazy alien dresses as well...

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    1. as i was hammering through, i thought "i can always hack it up later an make another alien." :))

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  23. wow, amazing dress,amazing colors!
    i think i'll try to copy it!
    alex

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  24. Those paired colors and textures are absolutely GORGEOUS!(Love the kick of blue with your shoes)Nicely done.

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    1. thanks shannon, i adore your tea dress (and your awesome face!)

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  25. I LOVE the mixture of these two fabrics!! The drop waist is such a great design feature which really shows off the lace bodice!! Another fabulous Oona make!!

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  26. Oona this is beautiful. But so is the intriguing half way point photo with the longer back hem and the lace all cut out on the edge. I do hope you return to this idea again in future. I can see it with a half or full or even twice circle skirted SUCK IT UP, KORS CHIFFON skirt. Long and flowy for the Emmys?
    I think the coutury lace sculpting thing may not work on a lac with such a clear and defined pattern. It is SO gorgeous love the scrollwork. The method requires that when you overlap it the overlap disappears into the laciness of the lace.

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    1. ooooooooh long and flowy for emmys, YES...

      yes, this lace just didn't want to play that way. i have some more yardage that's more lacy...

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  27. Oooh this is such a yummy color and texture! I love the dramatic back.

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    1. she was borne out of exhaustion, no time to add darts and remove all that excess back material i always end up with :)

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  28. You combined fabric, pattern and colours (I love the shoes!!!) perfectly- it is fashion with your kind of style, so beautiful! Wow! And the pictures as always eyecandies!
    Best regards
    Claudia

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  29. Wow that's gorgeous. Now I need to get me some cotton lace, too!

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  30. Beautiful combination of colors; at least the chameleon won't go completely mad this time. I am innocent of all charges re: keeping you up.

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  31. I do want to steal this from you, but the melons won't hear of it. So your dress is safe from me. It looks great.

    A paddle, huh? lol

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    1. AHH you caught the paddle!!!! that's ruggy's dad's fraternity paddle. YIKES, right?! i had to have it.

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    2. Of course I caught the paddle. I am such a perv, don't let my modesty fool you. lol

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  32. Your Plan A dress is faaaaaaaaaaaaabulous. Fabulous. I love the drop waist.

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    1. thank you fabulous lady. i'm getting into this drop waist thing.

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  33. i am in awe. such a great combo that I would never have thought of. you look amazing and rock it wonderfully.

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    1. thanks kelli! it's either my color blindess or my color SIGHTness. who can tell.

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  34. This is GORGEOUS, wow that lace is just absolutely gorgeous. Great job girl!

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    1. thanks haylee! you're sparkling in your first MSN creation!

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  35. Loving the print on the skirt, yummy.. lace seems way out of my reach.. on a scale of 1-10 of difficultness to sew, would it be a 14?

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    1. oh no, not at ALL. i actually find it very forgiving. and super easy to know that you're on grain, since lace has that great repeating pattern. silk chiffon is waaaaaaay harder than lace!

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  36. Beautiful colours, fabric and execution :)

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  37. those colors together are magical.. and i'm so in love with sunday high noon version of dress too (not only 'cause i recognize the fabric draped on your form no. 2), that would be one magnificent dress

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    1. I KNOW RIGHT!!! i want her to be a maxi dress... she's looking at her new friends which will soon be on their way to you (there's just one more friend i simply MUST put in the box...)

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  38. That dress is beyond divine! Seriously. It deserves a runway and a gasping-in-joy Nina Garcia. You are ridiculously talented at color / pattern and fit. I hope I get to see you soon and you are wearing this dress!

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    1. yo tigress! ah, i love it when nina garcia gasps in joy. we shall have a dress up night if you come to town!

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  39. You really tamed the beast! I love the color combo and the lace and print together is divine!

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  40. Oona - another lovely creation / great color combo and contrast of texture. I see that the chameleon got a little break this time :-)

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    1. ah, found you rosie! blogger decided you were spam. WHATEVER, BLOGGER.

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  41. It's utterly beautiful. And you make wearing bright colours look so effortless! x

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    1. thanks jane! actually, it's hard for me to not wear them :)

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  42. OH MY GOD that colour pairing! You inspite me every time. And that fit is perfect - but my fav part is definitely the lower bodice/ dropped waist (am I even using the right terms here??) and then the matching belt on the chartreuse, 'tis fab!

    And I totally think project runway need to do a sewing blogger edition.

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    1. oooooooh that would be so cool...but if they made us do rip away clothing or duct tape dresses i'd have to kill somebody.

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  43. Love the color combo and the combination of texture! Just beautiful.

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  44. These colours could even be your signature colours babe! GORGEOUS!

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    1. teehee! i wonder what IS my signature color. can techni color be it?

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  45. I can almost here you say "I am Oona here me ROAR!" You make this look far too easy girl.
    PS. I have two dressforms too...

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    1. ah, i love it! and, do you like having two? i feel like a mad queen or something.

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  46. A-MA-ZING! Incredibly pretty and you look awesome in it! Found you over at traintocrazy's link party features!

    I'm doing a 27 dresses challenge at the moment - would love for you to check it out!

    http://thisblogisnotforyou.com/?s=27+dresses&submit=Search

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    1. what a great blog! thanks for coming over in what must be some pretty limited time.....que challenge, man.

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  47. Came over to visit from make it wear it. And how could I not, this dress is beautiful! The bodice fit is perfection and the skirt looks like it has just the right amount of fullness. Lovely fabrics says she of the only one dress form land.

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    1. welcome! and thank you :). i'm pretty happy about the fullness of the skirt, i was worried about adding width there.

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  48. The chiffon pattern is amazing - I never pick anything up this fun but consider me inspired to do so! Also the fit is great. Can you breathe/eat? Love it.

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    1. totally, in fact i breathed and ate myself silly in this very dress last week. i have about an inch of ease (for once) and it worked like a charm. who knew.

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  49. Following you from make it wear it & love the design & colour combination! The fit of the bodice is perfect & like the fullness of the skirt!
    DeniseAngela

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  50. Love this color combo! This looks amaaaaaaazing on you!

    Now where's that pink and orange lace?! Can't wait to see what you make with it!

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    1. ugh. girl. after seven hours of staring at it on sunday, it's in a SEVERE time out. et vous?

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  51. Beautiful fabric pairing! The dress sings of springtime. Absolutely loving the dropped waist too!

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  52. Love the colour combination, and the lace looks lush! Actually, I think the bodice-with-edges part would have looked killer over black leggins (or maybe tiger?) but your end result is probably loads more wearable...

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    1. eeeeeeeeeee black pleather leggings... maybe i need some more lace...

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  53. Having just spent a whole day wrestling with silly Joann's poly lace, I am just itching to try some of this cotton lace dream you speak of.

    Nobody wears all the colors quite like you do!

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    1. ha! i like that! (the colors part. tho i do also miss joann's particular cinnamon smell sometimes.)

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  54. Everything you make is more amazing than the last. Give up acting and become a designer already so I can buy all your things!

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  55. Hi! It's me, Ann, your casting/sewing pal you saw today! Do you want to email me? My email is my first and last name at gmail dot com. It was great to see you!!

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    1. my email bounced back , i'ze iz technically deficient... :(

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  56. This dress is adorable!
    Jillian - http://epic-thread.blogspot.com

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  57. Aw man, the colourZZZZZ!!!!!!!!! You look amazing :o) and those shoes = HAWT.

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i thankya truly for taking the time to comment, i love a good conversation-- and hope you know my thanks are always implied, if not always written!